While Loch Ness gets all the attention, savvy Scots know that the real loch star in the wildly scenic Great Glen is Loch Lochy. And handily there is now a top-notch place to stay in the form of The Whispering Pine Lodge. It reclines on the water’s edge that boasts a superb restaurant (with views, of course), a cosy whisky-laden bar and a health spa too. Just don’t tell Nessie – she might consider switching lochs!
Why Stay?
The location really is spectacular, hunkered down beneath vaulting mountains in the massive geological fault line that is Scotland’s Great Glen. Rugged ridges and lofty peaks zoom off into the heavens, backed up by tree-shrouded slopes and waterfalls. Then in the foreground as far as the eye can see to the east and west is the deepest cobalt blue expanse of Loch Lochy.
The Whispering Pine Lodge is the ideal base for exploring both the Great Glen – its canals, towpaths and lochs – but also the Nevis Range to the south. This adventure playground has earned this corner of Lochaber the moniker of the ‘Outdoor Capital of the UK’. At the Nevis Range you can mountain bike on precipitous World Cup downhill epics, or just take it easier on a gentler blue or green run. I hired an e-bike on site and bashed off on a mixture of blue and red runs – great fun. They have bike tuition, as well as hire of all the gear you need. There is a great café too there and myriad hiking options too.
Your lochside room is also an ideal base for tackling Scotland’s Big Ben. Ben Nevis at 1,345m is the highest mountain anywhere in the British Isles. It’s a fair heft up as you are walking from pretty much sea level. It’s a sublime experience to stand right here on the top of these isles, but make sure you’ve got the right gear, check the weather and let someone know which route you are taking, plus when you expect to be back.
What’s it Like?
This grand old stone dame has the feel of a traditional country house with portraits of Great Scots on the walls and tasteful tartan, but the new Indian owners have really brought it impressively into the 21st century. And those views . . .The big blue skies and the loch shimmer in through windows at every turn. My room was on the lower level with sliding doors that opened right on to the loch’s shores. If you are brave enough to wild swim here it is ideal. I just enjoyed sitting watching the buzzards fly by.
Make sure to book a window seat in the Lochside Brasserie; a table outside on the spectacular terrace if the sun is shining. Beforehand have a wee whisky in the well-stocked Burns Bar too. A characterful snug that feels like walking into an old movie, the bar is the Scotland that you thought only existed in the old movies. It’s here and it’s gloriously real. Once seated in the brasserie tear yourself away from the views long enough to tuck into Scottish favourites like braised lamb shank and Cullen Skink, as well as a few spicier dishes courtesy of the new owners, such as Dal Makhani and Chicken Tikka.
Not many hotels in the Highlands offer their own spa. I went for a standard massage that was anything but at The Little Spa & Salon. The therapist was spot on, working on all my aches and pains. I left feeling as light as a feather, and headed back for a wee snooze with the door open to let the fresh loch air ease in.
Top Tips
There are not many spas on in the Highlands, so The Little Spa & Salon can get busy. To avoid disappointment make sure to book in your treatment when you are booking.
Black Sheep Hotels also run Rokeby Manor nearby, which has a great lunch option. They also own the Cluanie Inn a bit further north in the real wilds. In the long summer days you can head up for a day walking in the tough mountains there, topped off with dinner at the Cluanie before you head back to The Whispering Pine Lodge.
Check online as Black Sheep Hotels often have great deals on their own site. They have another couple of hotels too, with plans for more.
Reasons to Book
- Location, location, location on Loch Lochy.
- Food well worth staying in for; whisky too.
- Small groups and guests who want more space can book one of six new two or three-bedroom cabins.
- That on-site spa is a real boon and such a rarity in the Highlands.
Spean Bridge, PH344DZ. reservations@blacksheephotels.com, www.blacksheephotels.com,