John Muir – the Scot who inspired the foundation of America’s National Parks – famously once declared, “The mountains are calling, and I must go.” The Cluanie Inn would have surely been his favourite place to stay in Scotland then; an oasis tucked alone amidst a breathtaking sweep of Highland mountain massifs. It’s ideal for keen walkers, avid mountaineers and those who just want to get back to nature, relax and soak in the epic scenery
Why Stay?
The location could scarcely be more dramatic. The Cluanie Inn sits right beneath the famous hills and mountains of Kintail in Glen Shiel, set adrift in one of the wildest parts of Scotland. It may be easily accessible from the Great Glen and it’s on the road to Skye from Inverness, but you really feel like you are gloriously out in the sticks here.
There are myriad hiking options, but this is remote ground where the weather can change quickly so you need to be prepared with all the right gear. You need someone in your party with a map and a compass, who knows how to use them even in very poor visibility. Last time I was up here I hooked up with Abacus Mountain Guides. Their professional guide asked about my experience and abilities when I booked so when we met up at the Cluanie we quickly headed out on the route he had expertly planned for us.
Beyond Cluanie lies the site of the Battle of Glen Shiel in 1715. This remarkable place is the only battlefield I’ve seen in Scotland where sections of the Jacobite positions are so well preserved. It was fascinating to ramble around and, as I stood where my Cameron clan ancestors had faced up to the might of the British Army, I also found it very moving. A few miles further on you come to Eilean Donan, one of the most photogenic and photographed castles in Scotland.
What’s it Like?
The Cluanie Inn was looking a bit tired when Black Sheep Hotels took over and I’m pleased to say they’ve done a brilliant job resurrecting it. It’s a neat trick to update it, but also retain its historic country inn vibe and character – there was a staging post here as long ago as 1787. Today it has a luxurious feel, couretsy of tasteful Scottish decor and lush fabrics. The roaring fire in the lobby sets the tone of a true Highland getaway where your shoulders instantly drop, you forget all the stresses of home and settle into a land where there are easily more red deer – the UK’s largest land mammal – than people.
Make sure to snare a window seat at the Cluanie Bar and Kitchen, then you can savour those mountain view and admire the red deer that come down from the hills in the evenings. The lively menu is ideal after a day in the hills or sightseeing, with Scottish classics like haggis, neeps and tatties, or salmon, spiced up with Indian dishes such as dal makhana and a classic butter chicken. They do great pizzas too. Also on hand is the new Landour Bakehouse, with its replica 19th-century kitchen and baked goods inspired by that era.
The Little Salon and Spa is ideal for easing limbs strained by a hike. This cosy pine wood salon boasts an impressive array of treatments, with massages, body treatments, waxing, facials, manicures and pedicures. It operates a handily long day from 10am-7pm.
Top Tips
One of the real joys of the Cluanie is that all of the rooms are different. My favourites come with opulent four poster beds that make you feel like royalty. The room I had last time even had its own sauna! It was glorious, after a day battling along a Munro-studded ridge, to ease my legs in that sauna.
Black Sheep hotels also run Rokeby Manor a scenic drive to the south, which makes for a good lunch option. They also run The Whispering Pine Lodge, a little further on as you head for Fort William. The Lochside Brasserie is a glorious place here with a terrace overlooking the natural drama of Loch Lochy.
Make sure to allow plenty of time at The Cluanie Inn itself. I spent two days in the hills, and wish I’d had an extra day just to chill. With lovely public spaces both inside and out (I loved the wee internal courtyard), the bar, restaurant, bakery and spa you’ll benefit from booking more time here.
Reasons to Book
- Free your mind, body and soul in the heart of those epic Highland mountains.
- Restaurant that offers an eclectic array of tasty dishes. And red deer outside.
- Wee extras like the spa and that new bakery that make this so much more than you might expect from the name ‘inn’.
reservations@blacksheephotels.com, www.blacksheephotels.com,