Kyloe Restaurant and Grill, Edinburgh

As soon as you ascend the staircase to this central Edinburgh eatery the speciality at Kyloe becomes apparent. Cow hides adorn the walls and are stretched over seats. This is beef country. Serious beef country. It could all be, pardon the pun, all a bit ‘overdone’, but mercifully Kyloe delivers on the plate to back-up the décor at what may just be Scotland’s premier steakhouse.

Superb Steaks at Kyloe

Let’s cut straight to the chase here. Superb steaks are what Kyloe is all about. They don’t mess about and the waiting staff are impressively knowledgeable and know their ribeye from their T-Bone, and even their fillet from their bullet steak, the latter a cut this well travelled travel writer rather embarrassingly had never come across before. They even bring a heaving platter of fresh uncooked red meat to your table so you can discuss the cuts on offer.

Starters almost seem like a delay to the main event, but my Loch Creran rock oysters hit the salty, creamy spot, served as they should be on ice with nothing but the choice of a dash of mignonette on the side. Loch Etive mussels, North Berwick lobster and Shetland Queen Scallops demonstrate that they are serious about using non-meat fresh Scottish produce too.

Steaks and Malbec at Kyloe

On to those steaks now. And what a treat they are. We weren’t to be honest too impressed with the bullet steak (I felt slightly vindicated on my lack of knowledge here at a cut that on tasting maybe shouldn’t be served as a prime steak). This disappointment was blown out the water, though, by the epic T-Bone, a perfectly cooked rare slab of juicy well seasoned fresh meat topped off with a sweet, firm North Berwick lobster. This may not be haute cuisine, but for me it represents culinary nirvana, especially washed down with a glass of Argentinean Malbec. Sauces are varied with the choice of creamy Béarnaise, red wine and blue cheese, peppercorn, the unusual haggis, thyme and red onion or the mushroom, sherry and grain mustard. We preferred to just let the superb steak do the talking.

Decent Desserts at Kyloe

Desserts again seemed superfluous, but well well thought out. There were comfort food options like Knickerbocker Glory and more sophisticated dishes such as plum tart tartin and a Valrhona milk chocolate tart. Wines impressed too and were eminently affordable. Highlights included that aforementioned Malbec, backed up by quite a rarity, a New Zealand Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc by the glass.

Whatever cut you choose to eat it is unlikely that you will be leaving hungry. This is a serious meat feast for meat lovers, a stylish, modern space where some of the world’s finest beef, which Scotland of course produces, is the undoubted star of a thrilling show.

Kyloe Restaurant and Grill, 1-3 Rutland Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2AE, Tel. +44 (0)131-2293402. www.kyloerestaurant.com

InsiderScotland Rating

For Families 6/10.

For a Romantic Meal 6/10.

For Food 8/10.

For Business People 7/10.

InsiderScotland Rating 7/10.