In these troubled times the idea of an escape has never been more alluring. When I want to escape, really escape, I head to an island and they don’t come much more appealing than Scotland’s Islay. The ‘Queen of the Hebrides’ tempts with sweeping beaches, a flurry of whisky distilleries, world class produce and those spirit soaring big skies that make the Hebrides such a joy. And all this lies just 25 minutes away as I discovered on what proved a safe, reassuring escape from this Covid-19 ravaged world to an island that really goes that extra mile.
Flying in the time of Covid-19
My last flight was back from Naples in February just as the pandemic really kicked off. It was with a degree of trepidation I admit that I approached Glasgow Airport, but I needn’t have worried. Everyone adhered calmly to the masks-on rule, there was hand gel aplenty and clear signage led the way. The staff throughout were superb, from Glasgow Airport’s own people, through to the Loganair check-in and then the Lomond Lounge. Airline lounges really come into their own at the moment – I relaxed, with mask off when seated, as I looked out for our plane with a lovely bacon sandwich and a cup of coffee in hand.
Soon I was smoothed through the airport and down to the gate to board our trusty Loganair steed for our short hop to Islay – although it was timetabled as a 45 minute flight it only took 25 minutes. Again it felt a safe, secure experience. From my window seat I watched as left the urban sprawl and followed the Clyde west in search of the isles. Bute blinked back below, before the scenery went stellar with a spectacular approach around the rugged Paps of Jura. The final approach brought the long stretch of Big Strand – the longest beach on Islay – into view.
The northern distilleries beckon
On this trip I’d chosen not to bring my own car so to explore the distilleries and sightsee in the north I hooked up with Hughie Currie of Currie Taxis. He knows the islands very well and eased me up the eastern coast to check out the new Ardnahoe Distillery. This spectacular new venture offers floor to ceiling windows that give its stills views out across the Sound of Islay to the mountains of Jura. It’s quite a spot and proved the ideal venue for a food and whisky pairing session. This delicious option in their café with views offered three small dishes separated by a palate cleanser that really worked as it helped make the dishes distinct and didn’t confuse the whiskies.
Next up was Bunnahabhain. I’ve been here a few times and I was delighted to see they’ve invested in a new shop and reception area looking out over the water. I was here for a very special tasting and wasn’t disappointed. David – a man from Scotland’s west with a twinkle in his eye and liberal smattering of fine craic – took me through a glorious 16-year-old PX Noe, matured in a 30 year-old-sherry cask and an 11-year-old manzanilla malt, then pulled a few surprises including a peated – I never associate Bunnahabhain with peat – seven-year-old smoky malt.
My last northern tasting had perhaps the most dramatic setting possible – the epic sands of Machir Bay. Here I was introduced to a tastebud tingling quartet of malts from Kilchoman served right on the beach. It was a life affirming experience to savour malts alongside a lovely guy from southern England I’d just met – socially distanced of course – while the Atlantic surf pounded in the background and the sea salt filled our nostrils. My favourite malt here proved the sherry kissed Loch Gorm, a rich, peat infused sherry storm, though I love that the 100% Islay uses only local barley, making it the world’s only single farm produced malt.
Exploring the north
With wily old Hughie at the helm heading over to Islay’s western extremities and the old fishing village of Portnahaven wasn’t just a taxi journey. It was a journey back in time as he took me into a world of mysterious standing stones and a church with two doors. He pointed the way to a stone that legend has it would alleviate toothache if you bashed a nail into it. He has his own theory too on why there is a massive OK sign overlooking the harbour in Portnahaven – you’re going to have to take a tour with him to find out! Journey’s end came as Hughie introduced us to his pals, the friendly seals who splash around like Labradors in Portnahaven.
I opted to split my time back on Islay between two abodes, using the first to tackle the north of the island and the second to focus on the south. First up was Port Charlotte Hotel, a gorgeous whitewashed historic hideaway right on the coast in the trim village of the same name. My room at this boutique hotel boasted a view out to the famous stark white lighthouse that gazes out over Loch Indaal. Islay boasts nine whisky distilleries and the hotel’s cosy bar is perfect for trying out a few drams. One morning here I got up early to watch the sun come up over the loch with just the seals and a brace of brave swimmers, who were enjoying the crystal clear waters.
Onwards to the south
It was time now to slip back south of Loch Indaal and into the welcoming arms of Glenegedale House. Husband and wife owners Graeme and Emma Clark have won awards for their plush abode, which is handily located within walking distance of Islay’s bijou airport. A wee treat is their afternoon tea in the cosy lounge room, which is alive with delicious homebaking. Another treat came later with a gin and tonic before dinner (more on that dinner later). It wasn’t just any gin, but the new heather-infused Nerabus Gin, which is produced on Islay – you can visit the distillery. Glenegedale stocks an impressive range of gin and, of course, Islay whisky too!
Glenegedale also arranged for Islay E-Wheels to deliver one of their new e-bikes. I set out on it to head south under those big skies in search of the might southern trio of distilleries. One rugged stretch of coastline less than three miles long hosts some of the biggest names in whisky – Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg.
Smoketastic!
I tried two tastings here in the land of the mighty, smoky peat-drenched drams. First up Lagavulin gave me access to their warehouse for a very special tasting with the legendary whisky man Iain McArthur, who has worked in the industry since he was 15! He is now, er, a little more mature and there are very few people who know more about Islay malts than dry-humoured McArthur. I could have stayed here all day as Iain lulled me along with his tales and drams right here in the heart of Lagavulin. He surprised me by sneaking in a gorgeous eight-year-old whisky alongside the more mature expressions.
Ardbeg sits right on the end of the ace three-mile walkway and cycle path that handily now connects the three distilleries with the village of Port Ellen – I saw a new cycle path from Port Charlotte-Bruichladdich being built too as Islay continues to go seriously green. Ardbeg’s ‘Old and Very Difficult to Find’ tasting was stellar and lived up to its name. I tried a superb selection with the highlight a 1975 Ardbeg straight from the cask in all its 45-year-old mellow marriage of sherry and peat. Gorgeous! It’s just not fair you cannot taste it anywhere but here 🙁 Reason to come back?
Islay’s not just about whisky
Of course Islay is certainly not just about whisky – far from it. I’ve been out here six times now and I find new things to do every time. I’d never actually walked on Big Strand beach; Emma at Glenegedale insisted that had to change. So I cycled to Kintra and in seconds I was glad I had. This sandy oasis stretches out for miles, fronted by sand dunes and on the other flank backed by the cobalt Atlantic.
I also cycled beyond the Kidalton Cross – a large Celtic Cross you must see on your visit if it’s your first time on Islay – and pushed on to Claggan Bay, going my own extra miles. Here I strolled the sands before yomping up to an old hillfort site that my OS map only marked as ‘dun’. I stood atop it gazing out to sea conjuring up the days when Vikings sailed these deeply historic waters and the legendary Lords of the Isles held sway over much of the Hebrides from their Islay stronghold at Finlaggan. From the dun I spotted another wee sandy cove and dropped down. En route I spied an otter working its way along the coast while in the bay a volley of seals were splashing around. Thus wee beach was a total surprise; Islay is full of those.
Last but not least – the food!
I couldn’t write a story on Islay and not mention the food. The island’s natural larder is second to none with a rich bounty of seafood landed here, both lamb and beef hailing from its rich farmland and generous game too. I sampled two heaving seafood platters, the sort you just cannot get in city restaurants: boat-fresh and brimming with Loch Gruinart oysters, Islay lobster and a whole host of maritime goodies. The first at Port Charlotte Hotel I savoured with a sea view, then at Glenegedale I feasted on seafood landed at 5pm and on my table at 7pm!
I hadn’t eaten in the charming waterfront village of Port Ellen before and it offered two real surprises. The Islay Hotel was just brilliant with engaging Nigel (things are very much first name terms on Islay) ushering me through a whisky with each of my three courses. The lobster mac ‘n’ cheese paired with a seriously peaty dram will linger long in my memory. SeaSalt meanwhile was also impressive. I didn’t realise until after I’d eaten that it is run by a friendly old face, Yan Wang, who used to run Yan’s in Port Charlotte. He also offered lobster, with some meaty treats too and pizzas if you want a real change. The range of choices and experiences on Islay is always impressive.
Islay – a safe harbour in the storm
Oh, and what about Covid-19? Maybe it says it all that on Islay the pandemic was far from my mind and in writing this too. It’s not that Islay is ignoring Covid-19 – far from it; the islanders are dealing with Covid-19 in the calm, efficient way that they have dealt with everything thrown at them over the centuries. There are gel stations at every bus stop, signs gently flag up guidance entering every village and everyone sticks to the latest regulations. And they politely, quite rightly, remind visitors to if needed as well. Indeed I felt safer on Islay than shopping in my local supermarket! On Islay the locals have gone that extra mile at this tricky time, helping make it a deeply rewarding, life affirming time to visit the ‘Queen of the Hebrides’.
Factbox
For more information on Islay see www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk. Make sure to pick up the free ‘Extra Mile’ brochure at Islay Airport or check out this post lockdown campaign on www.wildaboutargyll.co.uk. For more information on Islay check out www.islayjura.com. For all travel to and around Scotland during the pandemic it is advisable to check with the latest Scottish Government guidance before travel www.gov.scot/coronavirus-covid-19.
*Robin was invited to travel to Islay on this trip by Wild About Argyll. All views and opinions expressed in the piece are his own.
For Loganair’s ‘Simple Steps to Healthy Flying Measures’ click here: www.loganair.co.uk/travel-help/fly-safe
