Normally I think of Highland Perthshire as an oasis to visit in spring and summer. That has been turned on its head in this most unusual of years when travel was impossible for spring and much of summer. So I found myself bashing up the A9 in autumn to see how the majestic Atholl Estates shape up for an autumn and indeed winter break.
It is easy to see why you would want to escape to this gorgeous corner of Highland Perthshire in these troubled times when a trip abroad is filled with quarantine dread. Handily ‘Big Tree Country’ looks at its best in autumn and winter as the trees explode in a teasing collage of ochre, orange and fiery scarlet. There is plenty of space for everyone too with the Atholl Estates spreading its bucolic tentacles across 145,000 acres of rugged mountains, soaring moorland, green glen and tumbling burn and river.
Extended Opening at Blair Castle
The great news this year is that the Atholl Estates have realised that a lot of people are still very keen to take a holiday – having missed out in summer –so they are extending their season longer. The landmark attraction of Blair Castle is normally closed in October, but this year one of Scotland’s most striking castles is opening right into December.
We joined one of their guided tours – which you can now book right through to mid- December. It proved a good move as instantly we peeled back the centuries into a striking world of gory armour and palatial décor. The Atholl Murrays were driven apart by the Jacobite rebellions as one brother hunkered down here in 1746 under the weight of a Jacobite siege when over 200 cannon balls slammed into the castle from forces commanded by a man all too familiar: his own brother!
I found the Jacobite Room, which houses the ‘A family divided – the Atholls and the Jacobite Risings’ exhibition, deeply fascinating. As well as a treasure trove of items owned by Bonnie Princes Charles, including a horse saddle and a pair of glasses, were a set of bagpipes that were played on that fateful day in April 1746 at Culloden. Most startling of all was the set of armour said to have been worn by Bonnie Dundee at the Battle of Killiecrankie. The metal is ravaged in two parts, evidence of the mortal wounds he suffered leading from the front.
Great Outdoors
Given the explosion of autumn colour we were keen to get outside exploring too. I’ve always been impressed by the extensive network of free waymarked walking trails (over 50 miles of them) that stretch out from Blair Castle. Pitch up at the Glen Tilt car park and myriad options unfold, including the new mile-long Balvenie Pillar circular trail. My girls were intrigued by this one as it ghoulishly leads to the site of the last hanging on the estate in 1630, which is marked by a vaulting pillar. It’s a poignant spot made all the more dramatic by its sweeping views over the estate and on towards Schiehallion, the ‘Fairy Hill of the Picts’.
Perfectly Brewed Craft Beer
There is something to do on the Atholl Estates for all tastes. There are formal gardens to stroll round, kids playparks and a sculpture trail. You can even get married here at a variety of venues. Now that would be one life affirming way to fight back against Covid-19! Or if you find a perfectly brewed craft beer uplifting there is a new option on an estate always looking to work with exciting new ventures. Wasted Degrees was recently set up by two University graduates. You’ll be glad they ‘wasted’ their degrees when you try their hoppy IPA and more unusual Chipotle ale.
Get Active in the Atholl Estates
There really are so many ways to get active in and around the Atholl Estates. We hooked up with Escape Route from Pitlochry. They offer e-bikes that enable those who might struggle on normal bikes to get out and explore, plus also letting more regular cyclists extend the range of their adventures. You can also rent out Segways on the estate too, which are a great way for exploring its endless nooks and crannies.
We also went out for a paddle on tree-lined Loch Faskally with Wee Adventures. The name gives away the seriously family-friendly nature of what they do. Under the legendary stewardship of ‘Biscuit’ we set off for an adventure alive with pirates and tall tales. We paddled, then laughed and splashed, then paddled some more. Biscuit proved equally adept at entertaining kids as he was at enthusing cynical, well-travelled writers! We all loved setting up camp under tarpaulin and savouring hot chocolates and, yes, biscuits!
Accommodation for all Budgets
On the accommodation front the season has handily been extended too. The estate accommodation has been awarded ‘We’re Good to Go’ accreditation by Visit Scotland. There really is somewhere for everyone, even your pooch as Atholl Estates are pet-friendly. Over the years we’ve stayed at two gorgeous self-catering escapes in the form of Kindrochet and Old Blair. You really have to get online to check out what they offer. We also found their Woodland Lodges really cosy for our wee family, with the caravan site also on hand to make sure there is something to suit all budgets.
Even outside the estate proper further gems tempt. We stayed on this visit at The Old Manse of Blair. This special five-star boutique bolthole deserves the plaudits and awards that it has won. They go that extra-mile in the times of Covid-19 too – we enjoyed a glass of wine when they let us dine outside by the firepit under a gazebo as we couldn’t do the same indoors.
Chloe Thornton, a spokesperson for the estate, is keen to reassure and encourage would-be visitors this autumn and winter: “It is the simplicity of a holiday with family, surrounded by nature, that is driving enquiries for winter holidays. The confidence that travel arrangements won’t be disrupted and that high standards of cleanliness will be enforced is the perfect solution for families looking for ways to grab some time away together prior to Christmas.”
Stress-free Breaks
If you’re looking for a stress-free break this year in these tricky times you’ve just found it. I’ve long been a fan of Highland Perthshire, but the Atholl Estates have created a positive side to the pandemic by going that extra mile so you can holiday this year right on into autumn and even winter. I’ve heard that bookings for the caravan park alone are up by almost a quarter so best book soon!
Not a place to rest on their hard-won laurels the Atholl Estates have plenty of exciting plans for 2021, including the start of their delayed wildlife tours on which you’ll be able to see beavers in the wild. There really is reason to visit the Atholl Estates all year round.
