It all started on the same night. Working as a travel writer for over two decades I get asked for advice a lot. One friend asked me if Edinburgh would work for an affordable family weekend? Another friend hopped in to wonder about the Newhaven tram extension and if Leith would now be a good choice as a base for a city break? I try not to dispense advice unless I’m sure. That has led me to standing here in the lobby of the new Virgin hotel with my wife and daughters now with a day trying to put together an affordable family break; another day checking out Leith and Leith Walk tantalisingly ahead.
Swish hotel and budget options
First up that new Virgin Hotel. So I know it’s not the cheapest place in town and there are myriad other options for a break in Edinburgh, from budget hotel to apartments. But I’d promised my girls a treat so here we are heading down the spectacular Instagram-beguiling corridor into this seriously swish abode. I am impressed how warmly we are welcomed as a family and also how our Family Suite stacks up for our girls, 14-year-old Tara and 11-year-old Emma. They have their own bedroom with a castle view and proper bunk beds with plenty of space to stretch out.
For breakfast we head to Scottish marketplace Bonnie & Wild in the swish new St James Quarter. This is great if you’re budget is limited as there is plenty of choice of where to eat. We opt for Stack & Still pancakes, who offer a frankly ridiculous two million potential pancake combinations, washed down with excellent drinks from local, ethically sourced Cairngorm coffee.
Free attractions
I’m intent on checking out as many free things to see and do as possible. First up is Calton Hill, which we wander around spotting all the Edinburgh landmarks. Emma remarks how it looks like a computer game. The girls are both smiling and breathing in lungfuls of fresh air, when at home they would probably be trying to squirrel away on their devices. We could head to Arthur’s Seat or the Royal Botanic Gardens now for more free fun, but instead we pay our first visit to the Museum of Edinburgh, a lovely free gem tucked on the Royal Mile that most people just walk by. Don’t next time you’re here as it really tells the city’s story in vivid detail. Afterwards we sneak in a coffee in Dunbar’s Close Garden just across the road, a bit of a local secret.
Next up is the free family-friendly Harry Potter trail, which departs from the Greyfriars Bobby statue at noon and ends at Victoria Street an hour and a half later. My girls are massive fans of the Harry Potter books and they hadn’t even realised that J.K. Rowling lives right here in Edinburgh. They are soon lost in a world of wizards and magic – taking one of these tours really gives you an insight into what inspired Rowling to start writing her books in Edinburgh in the first place.
Tastebud tingling lunch
For lunch we head to brand new, affordable, and very cool Junk in Newington. I love that it is run by a young couple with kids who have an inspiring Lockdown story. During Lockdown they started a food blog with recipes and that grew into street food stalls that won them Scottish, then British and on to European street food awards. They now have this superb restaurant. It’s a hard trick keeping a whole family happy, but they managed it with eclectic dishes that had all our tastebuds tingling.
An afternoon of family fun
We squeeze in two more stops before dinner on our action-packed affordable day. First up is the National Museum of Scotland. You could easily spend half a day in here and we have done in the past. I cannot think of a more engaging free family attraction in these isles. My girls love that there are all sorts of exhibits to marvel at, but also buttons to push, instruments to play and Formula 1 cars to drive. I always make sure to take them to the Scottish history sections, each time adding a bit to their own knowledge of the country they were born in and that we choose to live in.
Another wee walk builds an appetite for something sweet, which duly arrives with the chocolate making experience at the ace The Chocolatarium. This low-fi family-friendly experience takes you right back to the roots of ethical souring of cocoa beans. There is plenty of opportunity to taste chocolate and chocolate-based drinks, plus you get to make your own chocolate to take home. Thoroughly recommended.
Dinner comes with some family-friendly aplomb at Luckenbooths. The name comes from the old shopping stalls you used to find here on the Royal Mile. We savour a delicious three course meal, with the highlight steaks all round. They are aware that many people are having a tough time at the moment financially so they have on a special discounted menu. This is no skimping on the delicious food they serve though.
The New Faces of Leith
On day two I’m solo now heading down to check how the new extension to the Edinburgh tram network is engendering a renaissance of both Leith and Leith Walk. I’m staying at a fitting hotel, the Malmaison Leith, housed in a grand old Sailor’s Mission. Not only was it the first of the Malmaison hotels when it opened back in 1994, but it helped kick off the rebirth of The Shore. It’s still got a stylish vibe and a great location for exploring this rapidly changing part of Edinburgh.
The new face of Leith Walk is dramatically on show with breakfast at new Instagram-friendly Laila. These breakfast and brunch specialists are bright and creative, a lovely business run by two creative women. Over a delicious mushroom brioche dish and proper coffee I meet Ailidh Forlan, food blogger Plate Expectations and part of the Edinburgh Street Food (ESF) team. She tells me about the remarkable new Edinburgh Street Food Market, which opens on February 25. I get a quick sneaky peek at this game-changing venue, a 600-seat indoor and outdoor street food market with 10 local vendors and three bars that is open 7 days a week.
I leave ESF reluctantly – vowing to come back to eat here soon – and meet Paul Stewart, a Leith tour guide. Stewart used to work for the Invisible Cities Project, a social enterprise that trains people who have experienced homelessness to be guides in their own cities. Now he does his own tours. He has opened up the Trainspotting connections with Leith in the past, but now he says he is planning to update his tours to be more ‘Tramspotting’ such have been the scale of the recent changes. We walk from the top Leith Walk to Easter Road, exploring how it has become “F-easter Road!’’ with numerous foodie highlights. Take your pick from the likes of Cornelius Beer & Wine, 12 triangles, Polentoni Italian Deli, Little Fitzroy coffee shop , Mo Beans coffee, Edinburgh Honey Company and the Old EastWay Tap. The more traditional side of Leith comes across as good as ever at the Sicilian Pastry Shop, a brilliant old baker established in 1979, a real family run, traditional Italian bakery.
Leith strength in depth
Lunch is with BBC Radio DJ Vic Galloway at the brilliant Leith Depot. Galloway tells me about all the rich Leith music connections. Young Fathers live in Leith and have just recorded their new album here, as has another local talent, Hamish Hawk. In the same Post Electric Studios (part owned by Idlewild’s Rod Jones) hot new tip Redolent have just recorded an album for Columbia Records. It’s all happening at the moment in Leith. As we tuck into great, affordable food and drink Galloway tells me of the monthly club VITAMIN C he is staging at Leith Depot, with guest DJs and bands alongside his considerable DJ skills.
More talent is on show at the Pilot Brewery. I meet Patrick Jones, the co- founder, and he talks me through the story of this much-loved cult local craft beer, which is renowned across the UK. I try their Leith Lager, which is a crisp, refreshing joy. I don’t think I will, but I actually really enjoy their famous Peach Melba Sour. I’m not a huge fan of fruit beers, but in their capable hands it’s a lip-smacking wonder. Leith overflows with craft breweries these days as the area builds and builds with Newbarns another of my favourites.
Next up is a return to Leith Theatre, where I meet Lynne Morrison, their chief executive. This stunning venue is central to Leith’s story, but also its future as it’s currently looking to secure founding to restore it to its former glory and become what Morrison calls “Edinburgh’s Barrowlands”. Established in 1932, Leith Theatre was bombed in WW2, but survived to see the likes of ACDC play there in the 1970s. It lay derelict for over 30 years, but is now gradually coming back to life, with sporadic gigs since 2017, including Jarvis Cocker and local heroes Young Fathers. It also stages gigs during the Edinburgh Festivals in summer.
Style at the end of the line
Day’s end comes with dinner. And it’s a superb meal at Heron down on The Shore. This relaxed fine dining venue overlooks the Water of Leith, but my focus is on the plate and on my glass with thrilling food and wine. They offer tasting menus and a la carte. I suggest you leave yourself in the more than capable, hotly tipped hands of incredibly talented young chefs Tomás Gormley and Sam Yorke, as well as pastry chef Edgar Lumsden-Morris.
I’d planned to leave Leith on the morning of day three, but I just cannot with so much going on and the trams helping give the area a serious leg up. I follow the tram line from the Malmaison Hotel to the Port of Leith vertical distillery , where I meet childhood friends and founders Ian Stirling and Paddy Fletcher. They sweep me up on a hard hat visit to take in the epic views from the top floors and to hear about their exciting plans for their June 2023 opening. The UK’s first vertical distillery really is something, an exciting new development for Leith that will be major new tourist attraction with bars, eating venues and tours
The same guys are behind the already up and running Lind & Lime gin distillery nearby. Their signature London Dry Gin is a stunner, great in a cocktail and even on its own. They do tours that open up what they do and I suggest you join one as you learn a lot and get to check out their shop too. They are not guys to rest on their hard-won laurels, so the shop also stocks their own brand Port of Leith port and a range of sherries. Look out for a gorgeous Pedro Ximenez coming soon.
My last stop is a fitting one. At Spry on the top of Leith Walk I see workmen putting the final touches to the tram works. Spry is a lovely new little neighbourhood wine bar that specialises in naturally made wines, with local, seasonal dishes on offer too. here is a stripped-back minimal Scandi hipster vibe, but the staff are not in the least patronising, talking me through the eclectic wines. Spry features in the Michelin Guide and it’s easy to see why. My Leith Walk take on rarebit is delicious, with Leith’s Newbarns ale and cheddar from the St Andrews Farmhouse Cheese Company worked into the gorgeous mix
Ending my trip in style I think about what I will tell my two friends. On my family day Edinburgh really did step up with some superb affordable options, so yes you can savour Edinburgh on a budget but still enjoy a range of rewarding experiences. On Leith I’ve spent a lot of time here before and this is the biggest buzz I’ve ever felt in both Leith and on Leith Walk. I’d go as far as to say it’s the biggest buzz and level of energy I’ve felt in any city neighbourhood in the UK for a good few years.
*This blog was written in association with Forever Edinburgh. You will find plenty more information on things to do, see and savour in Edinburgh over on their site www.edinburgh.org. All views expressed are our own, independent opinions.
