As I write this I’ve just found out that Which? Magazine have named North Berwick as one of the best seaside resorts in the UK. I’m not remotely surprised as this East Lothian charmer has long been a favourite seaside getaway for the McKelvie family. This trim, relaxed town on the shores of the Firth of Forth offers everything from gorgeous beaches and lovely hill walks, through to world-class lobster and the world’s largest gannetry. Hop on the train now as we ease away to North Berwick, with our 9 reasons you should escape to North Berwick.
1. Bountiful Beaches
Tourism in North Berwick dates back to the days when stressed out Londoners used to take a train north to ‘take the waters’ at what was then a famous spa resort. The town itself boasts two glorious sandy beaches. North Berwick’s West Beach is a stunner backed by the luckiest homeowners in town. A sprinkling of offshore islands tempt, as does the links golf course just behind the sands. Across the road the East Beach meanwhile tends to be quieter with an old saltwater swimming pool and great views to Bass Rock.
2. Scottish Seabird Centre
This brilliant all-ages attraction sits right on the North Berwick waterfront. The reason the Scottish Seabird Centre is here is that just offshore is the world’s largest gannetry – Bass Rock. The views out to this famous lump of granite are epic and there are live camera links to all the hot gannet action on Bass Rock. You can learn everything you ever wanted to know about gannets here, discover more about myriad other species and then chill in their wee café with more views of the rock of the gannets. A great family-friendly attraction. Go!
3. B&B Hideaway
On my most recent visit to North Berwick I eschewed a pricey hotel and settled into the appealing 6a North Berwick Bed & Breakfast. As soon as I met owner Alan – it’s all first name terms here – I knew I’d made a great choice. He offers everything that B&Bs years ago didn’t always. There are smiles aplenty, you are made to feel genuinely welcome, the breakfast is huge and laced with local produce, and there is a brace of lovely rooms. You can even use his attractive garden on a sunny day – in East Lothian there are plenty of those. Room Number 2 was charming: all muted, relaxing colours and I had a view out to North Berwick Law. The bathroom comes with a stand-alone rolltop bath. “We just like people to really relax here and forget about the stresses and strains of home,” said Alan as I checked in. I most certainly did.
4. Love the Local Lobster
Think Scotland and lobster and most people think west coast. Well, lobster fans will be delighted as the local Firth of Forth lobster landed in North Berwick are top-notch. They tend to be a bit smaller than their West Coast counterparts, but they are sweeter and rich in flavour. There is a famous wee shack down on the harbour serving them simply as can be. Or book a table at the Rocketeer, a historic wee building near the harbour where you can tuck into lobster with a glass of chilled white wine. Or local cider Thistly Cross. Trust me – that’s a lovely combo. Finally, you can posh it up a bit more at the Nether Abbey Hotel. Surf and turf with a lobster from the tank you see as you enter is a real treat.
5. Boat Trips to Bass Rock
I love gazing out at Bass Rock from North Berwick. Last time I was here the light was perfect as you could see clouds of gannets swirling around with the naked eye. But there is nothing like actually heading out to Bass Rock to circle this unique island on a boat. Sula Boat Trips are a lovely family-run company experienced at taking guests out for a taste of this famous granite rock sentinel. In 2021 they got a new boat – the spacious Sula III – and it’s really well set up for families. On our one and half hour adventure expert wildlife guide Caroline really educated and inspired us, telling us about the gannets, but also puffins, seals and other seabirds, with a bonus the rich history of these waters.
6. I Fought the Law and the Law Won
It may be only be 187 metres high, but that’s not the whole story with North Berwick Law. On the circuitous hike up – please stick to the waymarked path to help avoid erosion – the views start to tease. But it’s when you hit the summit that the real joy explodes. The view is truly epic as Edinburgh unfurls to the east with a sprinkling of Firth of Forth islands almost too numerous for the eye to take in ahead. Fife rises just across the water and East Lothian stretches all around as it eases south towards the Borders. An information board helps you orientate yourself. The giant whalebone is a replica, but it’s still striking. As are the ruins of an old Napoleonic War signal station and a bunker that was used in air defence in both World Wars.
7. Shopping!
I love that North Berwick is alive with so many independent shops and boutiques. The High Street is the epicentre of North Berwick’s slow down and relax retail culture. We’re talking everything from old world sweetie shops and traditional butchers, through to contemporary jewellers and fashion boutiques. There is a real buzz about the High Street in North Berwick that has sadly been lost across so much of Scotland these days.
8. North Berwick in Bloom
North Berwick is awash with greenery and fragrant flowers. It’s easy to see why it has won awards in the Britain in Bloom competition. Even arriving in town the North Berwick signs are brightened by flower boxes, with more patches of glorious life and colour sprouting up all over the town. The town’s green spaces – the Lodge Gardens are our favourite – are supremely well kept, making just ambling lazily around the streets a joy.
9. Follow the Way of John Muir
The Scottish man who inspired the American national park system was virtually unknown in Scotland until the John Muir Way, a 134-mile long distance coast-to-coast walking and cycling route, opened in his honour in 2016. It sweeps from Helensburgh – where Muir left Scotland – right down to just south of North Berwick at Dunbar. From North Berwick you can walk the section to Dunbar and visit the museum dedicated to Muir, or break east towards Gullane, following the coast in the direction of Edinburgh. Both options are glorious.
