Scotland is a country that never ceases to amaze. And surprise: it’s a travel version of the Tardis. Did you know that it has over 800 islands? Or that even without those islands its coastline is longer than that of England, France and Spain? And within the country there are further layers of surprise and wonder. Take Dumfries and Galloway, the most southerly region, which is alive with imagination firing surprises at every turn. Here are 10 of the most striking.
1. Stranraer
This coastal town may have lost its ferry connection to Ireland, but it has surprised the doom mongers by seriously fighting back. I met up with the Stranraer Development Trust on my recent return and was impressed by their passion and vision. They are at the core of the renaissance that is already delivering a new watersports centre. The local marina will be extended too and the George Hotel is due to re-open soon. There are new community hubs, street murals and a real sense of a returning buzz. The Stranraer Development Trust are at the heart of things so make sure to pop into their hub in the old tourist information centre. There are big plans for yet more development, so watch this surprisingly busy and dynamic space.
2. Scotland’s only wild, native oyster bed
Loch Ryan is famous for its oysters, but did you realise that they hail from the only native wild oyster bed left in Scotland? Indeed this remarkable treasure trove is one of the most important oyster beds in Europe. The Loch Ryan Oyster Fishery Company bring these remarkable foodie treats to the world. If you love these bivalve molluscs don’t miss the annual Stranraer Oyster Festival in September, a glorious celebration of Loch Ryan’s finest.
3. Gin!
And not just any gin. Newton Stewart is home to the frankly brilliant Crafty Distillery. Unlike so many Scottish gins they do not cut corners and actually distil from scratch. They are so serious about their craft they forage local botanicals too, with an annual limited release only using local botanicals. Take a tour and a tasting and you’ll soon be a fan. They have also laid down newmake spirit that they are aging to become whisky and the first taste tests have been very positive indeed.
4. Masterchef
Forget city centre cooking schools as Dumfries and Galloway offers its very own cookery school in the grand surrounds of the Penninghame Estate. The Penninghame Cookery School reclines in the old stables, with slick oak cooking stations and multiple ovens ready for you cooking up a storm. The American owners have big plans and already you can stay self-catering in this hallowed world of statues and rich oil paintings.
5. D-Day was planned in Dumfries and Galloway
Yes, seriously! Churchill and Roosevelt headed to a top secret hideaway I’ve just been back to, where they hatched their plans. I’m talking about Knockinaam Lodge. I love the thought of them squirrelled away planning, only presumably breaking to savour the tasting menu graced with Belted Galloway beef and native scallops and salmon.
6. The Southern Upland Way isn’t 212 miles
For years everyone thought that the brilliant coast-to-coast Southern Upland Way swept across 212 epic miles through Dumfries and Galloway and the Scottish Borders. With more and more walkers using GPS it eventually came out that it is actually 214 miles! There is a new start too in Portpatrick down on the harbour, a much more dramatic start than when we tackled the spectacular Dumfries and Galloway sections of it.
7. Newton Stewart
Every village or town I head to in Dumfries and Galloway seems to have its own surprises. Take Newton Stewart as a wee example. Did you know that the KLF’s Bill Drummond was raised in Newton Stewart? He grew up here from 18-months-old until he was a teenager, with his father a minister in the local church. Or did you know Robert the Bruce once forded the river here on his pilgrimage to the shrine of St Ninian? As if that were not enough how about the local art deco cinema you can catch the latest films? Did you know that the premiere of the famous Wickerman was screened here? There were auditions for extras in the town and filming around the town too.
8. Bannockburn started here
This is not as much of a stretch as it at first sounds. Scotland’s most famous king, Robert the Bruce, came to Glentrool demoralised after failing repeatedly in his battles against English rule. He switched tactics and went guerilla in Glentrool seeing off an English force by hurling giant boulders down on them at the loch. His successes spiralled on from there and ultimately led to his epochal victory at the Battle of Bannockburn.
9. Communities are doing it for themselves
Forget dowdy villages and depressed communities. In rural Dumfries and Galloway communities are doing it for themselves. Glentrool Hive is a brilliant old school reinvented as a bright community space, gift shop and visitor accommodation. The Vault Art Centre in Newtown Stewart is a brilliant community-run events space that not only attracts a slew of musical acts, but also stages a series of popular festivals.
10. Move over Orkney
Yes there are amazing Neolithic ruins in Orkney, but what about Dumfries and Galloway? When I was last there I visited two remarkable Neolithic sites that threw me back through the millennia with all the drama of Outlander. No surprise there, of course, as Sam Heughan hails from Dumfries and Galloway. If you want to try your own trip back through time then head for the Torhouse Stone Circle and the Cairn Holy Chambered Cairns.
This blog comes in conjunction with Scotland Starts Here. Note that all views and opinions expressed are independent and are our own.